Sydney is renowned for its opera house, harbour bridge and sandy beaches but it also boasts one of the city’s lesser-known secrets: ocean pools. Serene at low tide and choppy at high, the pools are a Sydney swim institution, offering protection from cold Southerly winds, big seas and strong currents. And, unlike sand-and-shingle beachfronts, many have changing rooms and showers.
The pool phenomenon started in the late 19th century, when recreational and competitive swimmers formed their own associations. “As the waves were so dangerous and sharks a danger, people wanted nice safe places to do their swimming,” says Marie-Louise McDermott, an expert who has written on Sydney’s rock and ocean pools.
Today, just about every Sydney beach has a rock pool at its southern end to give swimmers some respite when the surf’s up. Coogee’s Wylie’s Baths are a highlight, with raised decking built into the cliffs and sweeping views of Wedding Cake Island. Then there’s the women-only McIver’s Ladies Baths, which has been a Sydney icon since the 1800s. It might feel out of place in a city that prides itself on egalitarianism but McIver’s is an officially protected heritage site, so the women-only policy is in effect.
At Bondi, arguably the most famous pool in town is Icebergs. The pool has long been a must-visit, not just for the stunning views but for its history and cult status as a Sydney landmark. Its fabled pink and white walls were inspired by the ruins of Roman public baths, while the curved shape is meant to mimic the outline of a swimmer.
In recent years, the pool has also become a favourite spot for Instagrammers. It’s easy to see why, with its pristine water, picturesque backdrop and a plethora of swimmers posing for the perfect shot. But not all locals are sold on the pool’s charm.
“It’s not the bread and butter of councils to do $60m, $70m vanity projects,” argues City of Sydney councillor Anne Baker. She voted against the project 23 times, arguing it was too expensive and unnecessary.
Michael Easton, a physiotherapist who works at a gym in Woolloomooloo, has swum laps in 68 Sydney pools and struggles to pick a favourite. “There’s something intrinsically comforting about water, maybe it goes back to being in utero,” he says. “It’s soothing and calming.”
Sydneysiders are encouraged to get out and swim, with the city’s summer open day on Sunday. The event will provide free access to the Andrew Boy Charlton (ABC) Pool, Ian Thorpe Aquatic Centre and Cook + Phillip Park Pool as well as healthy living workshops and stretching classes. More information can be found on the city’s website.